{"id":13558,"date":"2024-12-01T21:35:48","date_gmt":"2024-12-01T21:35:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/?p=13558"},"modified":"2024-12-01T21:35:48","modified_gmt":"2024-12-01T21:35:48","slug":"post-covid-life-and-chinas-tough-economy-pushes-a-95-year-old-jewelry-brand-to-embrace-wearability-and-a-more-casual-consumer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/?p=13558","title":{"rendered":"Post-COVID life and China\u2019s tough economy  pushes a 95-year-old jewelry brand to embrace \u2018wearability\u2019 and a more casual consumer"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> <br \/>\n<\/p>\n<p>Chow Tai Fook Jewellery\u2019s new flagship store, which opened in Hong Kong\u2019s Central neighborhood in September, has a subtle design, as does much of the jewelry sold inside. The name above the door doesn\u2019t sport the Chinese characters for \u201cChow Tai Fook\u201d shown prominently atop the retailer\u2019s thousands of other outlets. And inside, the store\u2019s design hearkens to some of the traditional images of Hong Kong; the metal grille that covers the columns is a reference to the Chinese city\u2019s ubiquitous bamboo scaffolding.\u00a0<\/p>\n<div>\n<p>The jewelry, too, is more understated, like a diamond-studded pendant made from gold and red enamel, designed to emulate the Chinese characters that make up the name of the store and of Cheng Yu Tung, who expanded the jewelry chain into one of Hong Kong\u2019s leading conglomerates.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>In April, Chow Tai Fook charged Nicholas Lieou, the retailer\u2019s creative director for high jewelry, with the responsibility of refreshing and revamping the 95-year-old brand.\u00a0<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\" style=\"margin:auto;max-width:1024px\">\n<p>Courtesy of Chow Tai Fook<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>\u201cIn Chinese jewelry, [the craftsmen] try to overload a lot of cultural significance on one piece, which makes it very heavy,\u201d Lieou said in an interview in mid-November. \u201cJust using one concept, one idea, into a piece of jewelry is already a very modern take on what they traditionally would do.\u201d<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Luxury downturn<\/h2>\n<p>A luxury downturn is putting more pressure on Chow Tai Fook\u2019s rebrand. The retailer reported 39.4 billion Hong Kong dollars ($5.1 billion) in revenue for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ctfjewellerygroup.com\/en\/media\/news\/detail.html?id=1253\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"sc-93594058-0 fowfrQ  \" aria-label=\"Go to https:\/\/www.ctfjewellerygroup.com\/en\/media\/news\/detail.html?id=1253\" rel=\"noopener\">the six months ending<\/a> Sep. 30, 2024, the first half of the jewelry company\u2019s fiscal year. That represents a 20.4% drop year-on-year, the largest since 2016.<\/p>\n<p>Chow Tai Fook relies heavily on mainland China. Almost all of the retailer\u2019s around 7,000 outlets are in mainland China. The company\u2019s second-largest footprint is in Hong Kong, where tourism numbers have stayed stubbornly low.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Luxury brands have all reported sharp slowdowns in their China sales over the past year, as Chinese shoppers pull back on their spending amid a sluggish economy. Bain estimates that <a href=\"https:\/\/www.scmp.com\/economy\/china-economy\/article\/3286540\/chinas-luxury-market-loses-shine-bain-study-shows-spending-decline\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"sc-93594058-0 fowfrQ  \" aria-label=\"Go to https:\/\/www.scmp.com\/economy\/china-economy\/article\/3286540\/chinas-luxury-market-loses-shine-bain-study-shows-spending-decline\" rel=\"noopener\">China\u2019s personal luxury market<\/a> will drop by 22% in 2024, compared to a 3% increase in Europe.\u00a0<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\" style=\"margin:auto;max-width:1024px\">\n<p>Courtesy of Chow Tai Fook<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>Lieou, who spoke to <em>Fortune <\/em>before the earnings release, said he was aware of how difficult it could be to sell high jewelry in a tough economy\u2014in part because Chow Tai Fook is very open with its sales data.  \u201cPeople are not going to buy something they don\u2019t like,\u201d he noted. \u201cWe do have to put [the economy] in consideration.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>That economic data, as well as changes in how people enjoy themselves post-COVID, is why his modernizing push focuses on \u201cwearability\u201d and \u201chigh jewelry for everyday wear,\u201d to appeal to a younger consumer. \u201cToday, everyone is a lot more casual. You have a lot fewer galas and things to go to, especially after COVID.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cRather than these big gala necklaces, you might create something a little bit softer, a bit smaller in scale, but still beautifully made,\u201d he said.\u00a0<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Invigorating a 95-year-old brand<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>Lieou joined Chow Tai Fook around four years ago, after years working in the U.S., including a stint with Tiffany\u2019s as the retailer\u2019s design director for high jewelry. He got a personal pitch from Sonia Cheng, the retailer\u2019s vice-chairman, to jump across the Pacific to take a job at the China-based retailer.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI really understood what she wanted to do,\u201d he said. \u201cShe wanted to invigorate and refresh the brand. Being from Hong Kong, we know what the brand historically represents, what it signifies.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Chow Tai Fook\u2019s first store opened in Guangzhou in 1929, but shifted operations during the Second World War to the Portuguese colony of Macau and British Hong Kong. Cheng Yu Tung, the son-in-law of Chow Tai Fook\u2019s founder, Chow Chi-yuen, took over the business in the \u201950s, and expanded the company into a massive conglomerate with interests including real estate (through developer New World), hospitality, and energy.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Cheng\u2019s granddaughter, Sonia Cheng, is now the vice-chairman and executive director of the jewelry business; she\u2019s also the CEO of the Rosewood Hotel Group, owned by the family conglomerate (also named Chow Tai Fook).<\/p>\n<p>Lieou sees Chow Tai Fook\u2019s long record as an asset as he thinks about modernizing the brand. \u201cThere\u2019s so much history. It\u2019s very easy to extrapolate cultural elements and use it in the design.\u201d<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\" style=\"margin:auto;max-width:1024px\">\n<p>Courtesy of Chow Tai Fook<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>\u201cTo create something new is harder; to create from something\u2014to reference something that is culturally significant\u2014is easier,\u201d he continued.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>A recent example is the retailer\u2019s \u201cGate\u201d collection, which trades on some of the iconography of the traditional doorways found in historic Chinese buildings. But combining cultural details with modern styles can be tricky: One diamond bangle in the collection requires 26 different parts to be put together, Lieou explained.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>\u00a0\u201c[The craftsmen] weren\u2019t quite happy about that,\u201d he admitted. Chow Tai Fook relies on human craftsmen using traditional techniques to put together each piece of jewelry. (Though there is also a role for new technology, like \u201c5D gold,\u201d a process that hardens pure gold to make it more durable.)<\/p>\n<p>That leads to a constant negotiation between designers and craftsmen to turn concepts into a workable reality: \u201cWe really rely heavily on the generational knowledge of the craftsmen.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>But, for Lieou, that back-and-forth is part of the appeal of design. \u201cDesign, for me, is problem solving,\u201d he said. \u201cHow do we solve this design challenge in an aesthetic way?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The scale of the rebrand is clearly visible from Chow Tai Fook\u2019s new flagship store. Two other stores\u2014still sporting the old branding\u2014are literally steps away, along the same same 500 foot stretch of road.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt doesn\u2019t bother me,\u201d Lieou said. \u201cPeople are creatures of habit, especially when you buy jewelry. You generally go to the same [store] where you bought your first engagement ring, your first important watch.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThese are very meaningful realtionships we have with customers.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><em>Fortune\u2019s Brainstorm Design conference is returning on Dec. 5 at the MGM Cotai in Macau. Panelists and attendees will debate and discuss \u201cExperiments in Experience,\u201d designs that blur the line between the physical and digital worlds to captivate users and foster lasting connections.\u00a0<\/em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fortune.com\/conferences\/fortune-brainstorm-design-macau-2024\" target=\"_self\" class=\"sc-93594058-0 fowfrQ  \" aria-label=\"Go to https:\/\/www.fortune.com\/conferences\/fortune-brainstorm-design-macau-2024\"><em>Register here<\/em><\/a><em>!<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Chow Tai Fook Jewellery\u2019s new flagship store, which opened in Hong Kong\u2019s Central neighborhood in September, has a subtle design, as does much of the jewelry sold inside. The name above the door doesn\u2019t sport the Chinese characters for \u201cChow Tai Fook\u201d shown prominently atop the retailer\u2019s thousands of other outlets. And inside, the store\u2019s [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":312,"featured_media":13559,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[123],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13558","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-business"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Post-COVID life and China\u2019s tough economy pushes a 95-year-old jewelry brand to embrace \u2018wearability\u2019 and a more casual consumer | Unlock Informed Choices with Us<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"\u201cEveryone is a lot more casual. You have a lot fewer galas and things to go to,&quot; said Nicholas Lieou, Chow Tai Fook&#x27;s design lead for high jewelry.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/topat10.com\/?p=13558\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Post-COVID life and China\u2019s tough economy pushes a 95-year-old jewelry brand to embrace \u2018wearability\u2019 and a more casual consumer | Unlock Informed Choices with Us\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u201cEveryone is a lot more casual. 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Gordon","author_link":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/?author=312"},"uagb_comment_info":0,"uagb_excerpt":"Chow Tai Fook Jewellery\u2019s new flagship store, which opened in Hong Kong\u2019s Central neighborhood in September, has a subtle design, as does much of the jewelry sold inside. The name above the door doesn\u2019t sport the Chinese characters for \u201cChow Tai Fook\u201d shown prominently atop the retailer\u2019s thousands of other outlets. And inside, the store\u2019s&hellip;","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13558","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/312"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13558"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13558\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/13559"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13558"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13558"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/topat10.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13558"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}